The Amtrak train station in Jefferson City lies in the shadow of the grand Missouri State Capitol building, on the ground floor of the former Union Hotel, which was built in 1855 and forms part of the Jefferson Landing State Historic Site. The history-steeped atmosphere is fitting for a ride on the Amtrak Missouri River Runner, the scenic train route east to one of Missouri’s most distinctive and historic towns: Hermann.
As the train pulled away from the charming station at 11:45 a.m., I let myself picture a nostalgic scene of my one true love running along and waving, handkerchief in hand, offering a dramatic farewell. (Perhaps she wouldn’t have bothered had she known I was scheduled to be back again by 4:45 p.m.)
The train bustled with travelers of all ages crossing Missouri. My ticket granted me a seat by a window that afforded plenty of room to get comfortable, as well as a drop-down tray table and outlet. Large luggage racks within each car supplied storage free of charge, and a dining car at the front of the train provided snacks, drinks, meals, and even playing cards.
The Missouri River Runner travels parallel to the Missouri River for a large part of the journey, and the short trip between Jefferson City and Hermann highlighted the river’s natural beauty particularly well. With both towns claiming a spot along the river, the rushing waters of the Big Muddy were visible for most of my ride. While those waters aren’t crystal clear (as the nickname the “Big Muddy” suggests), the views of the sunlight shimmering off the surface as the train rushes by were certainly enough to make me put down my phone and get lost in the scenery just outside the window.
A Full Itinerary
Once I arrived in Hermann, Anita Watson, a visitor’s guide, handed me a map of downtown. She happily answered my questions about where to go and sights to see, ushering me into the visitor’s center and marking places of interest on my map. Watson’s knowledge and expertise set the stage for the memorable hospitality that would become a hallmark of my stay. Her first suggestion for all visitors was the Caboose Museum.
Located behind the station, the Caboose Museum is hard to miss, with its bright red, solitary train car and the sign in the front. The free, self-guided museum made for a fun walk-through before moving on to the next part of my journey.
Across from the station is Hermann Wurst Haus, a shop and deli that is best known for its bratwurst. After the staff greeted me and walked me through the menu, I opted for the German Platter, which comes with two bratwursts and two sides of your choice (in my case: Best of Show and Caramelized Pear and Gorgonzola bratwursts, along with smoked gouda pasta salad and loaded potato salad). The food was delicious, and with many other barbecue options available, the Wurst Haus gave me plenty of reasons to come back.
A large selection of handcrafted meats, including bratwursts, are available for purchase to take home and enjoy later. The shop even sells freezer bags to transport perishable goods safely. The Wurst Haus is absolutely worth a visit to fortify oneself for exploring the historically German town.
Across the street from the Wurst Haus, some antique shops then caught my eye. With its vinyl records, military uniforms, and even a collection of old Playboy magazines, Hermann’s Attic Antique Mall offered a more vintage and eclectic experience. Down the street, Antiques Unlimited II was more of a traditional antique store filled with ornate furniture and dusty glassware. It felt like stepping back in time to the 19th century.
The Historic Hermann Museum, another of Watson’s recommendations, took me to the heart of downtown. The large brick building boasts a clock tower that’s been running since 1890. The museum attendant, Jim Allen, met me inside the large wooden doors, where he was eager to tell me about the museum’s exhibits. A brief video about the town’s founding set me up to explore the museum, which features rooms packed with artifacts and information about Hermann’s rich history. Creaky stairs led up to a particular highlight of the museum: the River Room, a large exhibit dedicated to life along the river.
The museum is engaging for adults and kids alike, and despite its small size, it would be easy to spend hours there learning about the town. On my way out through the gift shop, I picked up some old postcards for a keepsake, and Allen was generous enough to give them to me for free. The shop sells unique souvenirs, such as educational materials and even replicas of some of the museum items.
Plenty of Ways to Wet One’s Whistle
Most folks who have even minimal knowledge about Hermann know that the town is most popular for its wine. When German immigrants settled Hermann in the 1830s, they found the soil and climate was reminiscent of conditions in countries renowned for their wine, such as France and their native Germany. That created a perfect opportunity for a product not yet widely available in the newly expanding United States. And thus, wine country was born. The beautiful vineyards that dot the town will be an experience for another trip, but my thirsty palate wanted to seek out other boozy alternatives.
At Lionheart Whiskey Company, the establishment’s greeter, a large brown puppy named August, provided the welcome. Brandi Lambright, August’s owner, was my bartender, directing me to the menu and offering a few tastings, whiskey by the glass, and cocktails. I went with the Whiskey Foxtrot Delta cocktail, which was as rich in flavor as it was strong. The sunlight streaming through the open doors and fair weather made for the perfect setting to enjoy a cold drink. Lambright proved to be both a great conversationalist and a gifted mixologist, and she even let me taste-test a cocktail she was workshopping.
For my next destination, she recommended Doxie Slush, a restaurant best known for its alcoholic slushies, a fact that, according to Lambright, sometimes overshadows how good the food is. Neon lights illuminated colorful slushy machines behind the counter, setting the decor apart from older architecture around the town. My order of a Cubano-inspired smash burger and a slushy flight was a combination that did not disappoint. The burger was delicious, and the slushies — the Dappletini, Dragonfruit G&T, the Strawberry Amaretto Shortcake — were equally good, though there were around a dozen other options that sounded just as appealing. Finishing my meal, and with my time almost up, it only seemed fitting to visit at least one winery before departure.
Conveniently located next to the train station, the Hermannhof Winery’s Hofgarten is a large brick courtyard decorated with fountains and golden statues. Several stores surround the courtyard, with tasting rooms offering wine, beer, and spirits. It also features plenty of seating alongside beautiful views of the vineyards.
At G. Husmann Wine Company, a historic vineyard best known for its blends of wine from Missouri and California, I met with John Cowan, the sommelier, for a tasting of five different wines. Two highlights were the Rosé of Hermann and Blackberry Rhapsody. Cowan confided that people often come into the store expecting to buy a bottle of red but end up taking home blackberry wine instead.
By a stroke of luck, my train’s departure time was delayed, meaning there was time for one more stop. Both the Tin Mill Brewery and Tin Mill Restaurant serve food and drinks, but following Lambright’s advice, I gave the brewery the nod.
There, the aroma of hops greeted my senses, emanating from the brewing equipment on display through large windows. From among the pilsners, ales, and marzens, I chose a beer that had been stored in barrels used for aging gin, imbuing it with a unique botanical flavor. The brewery also has a beer garden and a massive subterranean beer hall. Dozens of benches run the length of the room, blackboards signed by previous guests line the walls, and sunbeams pour in from a door leading out to the garden.
After I finished my drink, it was time to head back to the Capitol City, ending a brief stay that had been action-packed. My senses were satisfied, and my feet were ready for rest, but the regret that I should have stayed longer lingered.
