On a recent evening in Columbia, I found myself stepping into a space that felt both new and oddly familiar. Warm wood panels lined the walls, the design was clean and intentional, and the atmosphere struck that balance between casual and curated. It’s the kind of place you’d expect to stumble upon in Austin, a little tucked-away, a little buzzy, and quietly confident in what it’s offering. But this isn’t Texas. This is Sushi Fajita, one of Columbia’s newest restaurant concepts, led by longtime restaurateur Kwang “Kory” Yoo.
At first glance, Sushi Fajita feels simple. There’s a large booth section that invites groups to settle in, while smaller tables create a more intimate setting, ideal for date nights or catching up with a friend. The staff is welcoming, and while the beverage menu is still growing, the current offerings — mocktails in mango, grapefruit, and lime — are bright, refreshing, and thoughtfully done.
But it’s the food that shifts your expectations.
The name “Sushi Fajita” might initially feel like a contradiction, two cuisines meeting in a way that doesn’t quite make sense until you experience it. And then it clicks. Instead of tortillas, you’re handed sheets of seaweed. Instead of pre-rolled sushi, you’re building your own bite. It’s interactive, a little playful, and surprisingly intuitive.
“Sushi Fajita was created as a natural evolution of my journey,” Yoo says. “After operating Geisha for nearly 18 years, I felt it was time to create something new. I’ve always enjoyed challenging myself creatively, and I wanted to build something more interactive, fun, and modern.”
For many in Columbia, Yoo’s name is already familiar. He’s been behind several concepts over the years, including Geisha Sushi Bar, which served the community from 2009 until its closing in late 2025, and I Am Sushi Burrito. Each restaurant reflected a different chapter in his career and a different way of thinking about how people connect with food.
With Sushi Fajita, the goal is clear: make sushi more approachable.
“My vision is to make sushi more interactive, customizable, and comfortable,” Yoo explains. “It’s not just about eating, it’s about sharing, exploring different flavors, and enjoying the moment together.”
That philosophy comes through immediately when the food arrives.
The restaurant’s signature item, the Sushi Fajita, is both the namesake and the experience. You choose your protein (or vegetarian option), and it arrives with a thoughtful spread of ingredients: spring mix salad, sushi rice, fried carrots, pickled radish, shrimp tempura, avocado slices, kimchi, and more. From there, you build. Each bite becomes a small act of creativity, shaped by your own preferences. When you’re done assembling, there are a few sauce options to drizzle on your sush-ita.
I’ll admit, the first bite surprised me. There’s a moment of recalibration when you realize your “shell” is seaweed rather than something warm or familiar. But once your taste buds catch up, it all comes together in a way that feels both balanced and a little addictive. It’s sushi, but it’s also something else entirely.
That sense of discovery is exactly what Yoo was hoping for. “To me, ‘Sushi Fajita’ is a very intuitive name,” he says. “It represents the idea of building your own sushi, just like fajitas. It’s about customization and making it your own.”
And it seems Columbia is ready for it.
“What surprised me the most is how quickly people embraced the concept,” Yoo notes. “Customers really enjoy being able to customize their experience and try different combinations. It’s been exciting to see people come back and explore new options each time.”
For those who prefer something more familiar, Sushi Fajita offers a nod to Yoo’s roots. Traditional rolls, reminiscent of his Geisha days, are still on the menu, with the White Tiger Roll standing out as a recommended favorite for newcomers.
The restaurant officially held its soft opening on February 5, with a grand opening planned once the final touches, such as signage, are complete.
And for Yoo, this is only part of what’s ahead. He’s already looking toward his next venture, a steakhouse planned for Columbia’s Arcade District later this year. Still, Sushi Fajita feels like a meaningful moment in his story. It’s not just another restaurant, but a reflection of years of experience, risk-taking, and a willingness to evolve.
Yoo’s journey started, like many in the industry, with a part-time job in a kitchen during college. From there, he worked his way up to head chef, eventually realizing a dream of owning his own restaurant. Now, more than two decades later, that dream continues to shift and expand.
Maybe that’s what stands out most about Sushi Fajita. It’s not just about reinventing sushi; it’s about rethinking how we experience food altogether.
The process invites you to slow down, to build something with your hands, to share the making with the people at your table. It’s familiar and new at the same time. In a city like Columbia, where the food scene continues to grow and surprise, that kind of creativity feels right at home.
Sushi Fajita
804 E Broadway, Columbia, MO 65201
sushifajita.com | @sushifajita
