This story was originally published in the November 2026 issue of COMO Magazine.

Just outside Columbia, this town has a rich history, with a French name meaning “rocky port,” a fitting description of the massive bluffs surrounding the area. Once a bustling river port along the Missouri River, Rocheport was an important stop for travelers and traders before becoming the quieter, picturesque spot it is today.

Only around 200 people call Rocheport home in 2026, but tens of thousands of visitors pass through each year. “Why?” you might be wondering. Well, don’t let the pretentious-sounding name of this charming town discourage you — it’s filled with quirky artists, beautiful natural scenery, and comforting dining options.

ART OFF THE TRAIL

In the heart of downtown Rocheport, you’ll find artist Gloria Gaus with a paintbrush in hand — on Saturdays and Sundays (and by appointment), anyway. At her gallery/working studio, ART Off The Trail, she shares her craft with visitors, but she’s just as likely to be found outside, easel set up somewhere in town, painting the landscape around her.

“I’ve been painting for three decades or more, and I ran that parallel with my business life,” says Gaus. “When I retired, I started doing [art] full time. I’m just an ordinary person who has a passion for paint.”

Gaus’s love for Missouri’s rivers, wetlands, and wide-open landscapes goes back to her early education in horticulture and landscape design. She has always been drawn to the way Missouri looks — its prairies, waterways, and winding landscapes — even if the state is sometimes dismissed as a place people pass through.

That appreciation makes plein air painting a natural fit. The French phrase translates to “open air,” and in a town like Rocheport, with its French roots and scenic surroundings, Gaus has no shortage of places to set up her easel. You may spot her and other artists around town, quietly taking in a view and translating it onto canvas.

“I’m always living in the past or the future. I’m always planning and thinking about what I should have done. But when I’m outdoor painting, I’m present in the moment, looking at what’s right in front of me. I’m feeling the weather — the sun or rain on me, and there’s something from nature that I can’t seem to get anywhere else in life,” she says.

One of Gaus’s favorite places to paint is the wetland area beside the Katy Trail Tunnel, where, among other flora and fauna, great blue herons, leopard frogs, and smartweeds congregate. Those little encounters with nature are part of what keeps her coming back and what makes Rocheport such a rewarding place to paint.

“It’s an adjustment for people when they come into Rocheport, and they don’t have signal everywhere, and they can’t look things up on Google,” Gaus says with a chuckle. “They have to slow down the process a little bit, but I think it’s kind of a secret that we have so many artists in town. It’s a budding art community just waiting to pop up.”

Above all, Gaus wants those who visit her and other artists to walk away feeling inspired.

“I just want to pass that spark along to someone else,” she says.

MOUNT NEBO INN

Part lodging, part dining destination, and just 30 seconds from the Katy Trail, Mount Nebo Inn brings a little bit of everything you might want for a relaxing Rocheport getaway.

Owned by Drew Lemberger, a former partner at Les Bourgeois Winery, the inn is a cozy place to grab a light bite and enjoy a glass of red or white wine, either indoors or al fresco. An upstairs rental unit makes it an ideal home base for a weekend visit or a longer stay.

Lemberger purchased the building in 2018, when it unexpectedly became available. He had previously been scouting locations to build his own winery, and Mount Nebo’s location immediately stood out.

“[There are] plenty of amenities nearby,” says Lemberger, highlighting the extensive trail system and green space as major draws. “You’re in walking distance to the river, and you really don’t have to get in your car [to get around]. It’s a very remarkable town.”

History buffs will also appreciate the building’s connection to Rocheport’s once-thriving African American community. Originally built as Mount Nebo Baptist Church, it is the oldest standing building in Rocheport associated with that community. Much of the original structure remains intact, including its unmistakable church-like appearance.

Today, the former church has found new life with a small stage and good acoustics that make the restaurant a natural setting for live music and comedy. Performances have featured plenty of mid-Missouri talent, including Audra Sergel, Columbia’s inaugural artist laureate, and The Fried Crawdaddies.

Beyond the live music at Mount Nebo Inn and throughout town, Lemberger especially loves the special events that bring visitors to Rocheport year-round.

“We’ve got quite a few things, between the Rocheport Stroll, the Wassail Walk, the chocolate crawl, and [serving as a stopping point] for the Pedaler’s Jamboree,” says Lemberger.

Another favorite is Second Saturdays, a free, family-friendly event held on the second Saturday of each month from April through October. The pop-ups feature live music and a mix of staple and rotating vendors, along with opportunities to learn hands-on skills such as candle-making and blacksmithing.

Together, these events capture some of what makes Rocheport feel special.

MERIWETHER CAFE & BIKE SHOP

Who doesn’t love a café with an endearing gift shop attached? Meriwether Café & Bike Shop gives trail-goers a place to fuel up, stock up on essentials, and take a breather before hitting the road again. The second you walk in, you’re greeted by the smell of fresh coffee — and, likely, the smile of owner Brad Landolt.

Landolt, who previously served as the café’s general manager, purchased the business in 2021. Since then, he’s continued the tradition of serving hearty, homemade meals to keep cyclists, hikers, and hungry Rocheport visitors fueled up for whatever comes next on the itinerary.

For breakfast, Landolt recommends the Louisiana Purchase: two buttermilk pancakes, two pieces of sausage or smoked bacon, two eggs, and home fries, with the option to swap the pancakes for fluffy French toast. For lunch or dinner, the Meriburger, topped with American cheese, lettuce, red onions, pickle, mustard, and ketchup, is a longtime crowd favorite.

Meriwether also makes a point of keeping things close to home, regularly using local ingredients like Hemme Brothers cheese and Fretboard Coffee. And while the café may have a new owner, its commitment to scratch cooking hasn’t changed. Biscuits and jam are made in-house, and Landolt says there’s something special about sitting down to a meal and knowing, for example, that the tomato came from somewhere right around the corner.

Part of Meriwether’s charm is its easy access from the trail. Visitors can walk right up from the Katy Trail, while bike racks out front make it easy to park your trusty ride and stay awhile. And if you drove to Rocheport but decide you want to take a spin around the trail? No problem. Meriwether also offers a variety of bikes for rent by the hour or for the entire day.

Next June, Meriwether will celebrate its 10-year anniversary. Plans are still in the works, but Landolt says they’ll no doubt do something special to mark the occasion. Ten years is a big milestone for a small-town café — and another reason to stop by, grab a bite, hop on a bike, or settle in with a cup of coffee. 

Katy Trail’s Tunnel

Did you know Sometimes They Come Back, the 1991 film adaptation of the Stephen King short story, was filmed in town, using the Rocheport Tunnel as a setting?

Carved through limestone, the 240-foot-long tunnel was once part of the MKT railway and is now the only true tunnel along the Katy Trail — which, fittingly, stretches 240 miles and is the longest continuous rail trail in the United States.

The MKT railway has been inactive since 1986, but its history lives on along the trail, where visitors can hike or bike through the tunnel and imagine the noisy trains that once carried goods through Rocheport.

It’s also a welcome reprieve on a hot day. Step inside, and the temperature drops by at least 10 degrees.

Katy’s Fork in the Trail

If you’re on the hunt for a cozy, intimate dining experience, head to Katy’s Fork in the Trail, just a two-minute walk from its namesake, the Katy Trail. Formerly known as Rocheport General Store & Café, it’s an easy stop for hungry hikers and cyclists and atmospheric enough to make a casual date-night destination, too.

The daily handwritten menu adds to the homey feel and hints at what makes a meal here fun: You never quite know what you’ll find. The menu rotates regularly, with dishes ranging from salads and soups to pork chops, pasta, and seafood. Plus, ask owner Susan Schapira for a wine-pairing tip, and she will be glad to help.

Stop by on a Thursday for Local’s Night, when the restaurant serves a secret “Special Dinner” not listed on the regular menu, along with live music. It’s a great way to settle in and enjoy a little local flavor.

Southern Provisions

One of the best parts of a trip is finding a little something to take home — for yourself, family, or friends — as a reminder of the special time you had.

Southern Provisions is regarded as a local gem, brimming with items like books, candles, wallets, and more.

One of its more distinctive offerings, though, is the cigar bar, where visitors can browse a selection of premium cigars before stepping out onto the patio to enjoy one.

While perhaps unintentional, the experience pays homage to a lesser-known piece of Rocheport’s history. In the 1800s, tobacco was an important part of the town’s economy, with farmers from miles around bringing their crops to Rocheport to store, trade, and ship along the Missouri River. Local craftsmen turned tobacco into cigars and other smoking products for residents, travelers, and riverboat crews. In a town that encourages visitors to slow down and take in their surroundings, the cigar bar feels right at home.

The “River Gnome” Statue

This woodland creature statue may appear a bit unusual and weathered, but like the town it watches over, it has an intriguing backstory.

The River Gnome honors longtime Rocheport community activists Marge and Jack McDermott. Marge was especially recognized for her conservation efforts, civic engagement, community planning, and preservation of native plants throughout the region. The gnome served as the family’s mascot, making this whimsical sculpture a fitting tribute.

In addition, Marge wanted the memorial to give visitors a tangible sense of the floodwaters’ height during the Flood of 1993, the worst flood Rocheport has ever experienced. The gnome’s cane is marked to indicate the actual depth the floodwaters reached.

Today, the gnome reminds Rocheport of its resilience and the strong sense of community that helped the town overcome the devastating flood.

Friends of Rocheport Museum and Mural

While much smaller than Columbia, Rocheport still holds on to its history for residents and visitors alike through the Friends of Rocheport Museum.

Situated on Moniteau Street, this historic building was once a residence and is one of the oldest in town, built nearly 200 years ago. It didn’t become a museum until 1972, when the Friends of Rocheport purchased the building and began preserving its stories. Inside, visitors can find documentation of significant moments and people in Rocheport’s history, including newspaper clippings of local events, photos of the constructed train tunnel, and telegrams from MKT railway depot agent Alva Barnes.

Outside, a colorful mural by artist Joe Schlottach tells the story of Rocheport’s roots. The artwork was commissioned last year, along with restoration work on the building, to help commemorate the town’s bicentennial.

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Kelsey Winkeljohn

If you couldn’t tell by the red-dyed hair, Kelsey Winkeljohn is a lover of all things colorful and out-of-the-box (pun intended). She graduated from Columbia College in 2023 with a BA in English, where she studied creative writing and minored in communication studies. She now serves as managing editor of COMO Magazine and COMO Business Times, with a particular taste for gourmet features and anything arts-related (food is art, after all). In her free moments, she enjoys reading for her two unnamed book clubs, writing mediocre horror screenplays, and snuggling up with her cattle dog, Jerry.